Leaving Washington late afternoon, we drove for just over an hour to Front Royal. Not to be rude, but as far as we could work out, it’s only claim to fame was that it was the start of the skyline drive, otherwise, we weren’t too impressed. We were checked into the “Cool Harbor Motel” (apparently a friendly and family run motel) by a tiny, wrinkled and quite frankly terrifying old lady. After our suite in Washington any room was going to be a disappointment, but the hard beds and wrinkled sheets did nothing to dissuade our initial misgivings. It was actually fine, a little weird perhaps, but it was clean, warm and dry (something that will become a luxury when we start camping!). The next morning, after a rather disappointing breakfast we headed towards the Skyline Drive. We thought rousing classical music was appropriate and as we drove up we both posed for photos under the sign marking the entrance. We merrily pulled up to the entrance to pay the fee, only to be told by the ever so lovely camp ranger who we couldn’t possibly be angry at, that the Skyline Drive was closed due to icy conditions, all 105 miles. Sad Face. Our plans for the day ruined, we decided that it would still be good to buy the National Parks Pass (valid for our whole trip for all the National Parks in the US) before driving off. Skyline Drive… FAIL!